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Friday, 27 April 2012

The Dhows of Beypore - Uru (Heritage Ship):


The Dhows of Beypore - Uru:


                 The name Uru is associated with the traditional ship building culture of Kerala. And the art and science of making these ships came from the Arab world, some several centuries ago. The Arabs called them Dhows and they eventually became the traditional Arabian trading vessels. Centuries ago, Arab traders traced their way to the spice-scented shores of Kerala. And after coming to know about the availability of good timber in the forests of Kerala and also the presence of skilled crafts persons in ship building, the Arab merchants began to place orders for constructing dhows to the crafts persons of Malabar in north Kerala.

                 Located at the mouth of the Chaliyar River, historically, Beypore several centuries ago was itself a prominent port. At one stage in history, Beypore was also an important Centre for trade via sea, attracting Arab and Chinese travelers and later the Europeans. Beypore has a tradition of shipbuilding that is about 1500 years old. It once experienced great demand from Western Asia for ships, because of its fame as the home to excellent crafts persons. This shipbuilding industry at Beypore once had a healthy phase of growth until the invasion of iron and steel, posing a serious threat to its existence.

        The Baraami’s were the ship builders in Beypore. Local teak wood was used for manufacturing the dhows. These Baramis can be traced to the Al Mukalla tribe in Egypt and struggle to continue the ship building in Beypore.

         Beypore was where the great Urus and the tough Dhows were built. They were the mainstay of the spice trade between the sea coasts of Malabar & Arabia. Here was where master craftsmen (Maistry) or the carpenter breed called Khalasis crafted these wonderful ships with the aid of no modern tools like charts or instruments, but from memory & mental calculations. The old ships were crafted from Malabar teak but sadly now import a variety similar to Irul, from Malaysia for price (a fifth of the price) reasons. Malabar teak brought from jungles through Chaliyar River as bundling them together called "therappan".

          It was from these Malabar shores that the first migrants to the Gulf launched themselves on a long lasting exodus, when young men desperate for jobs smuggled themselves out of the country in long country boats called uru’s which took cargo to the Gulf ports.

          The Beypore area is today home to the Mappila khalasis, famous for their expertise in lifting heavy weights. Till today, when machines and bulldozers fail, the khalasi teams are called on. Using little more than a wooden pole used as a dower or winch and leveraged by hawsers and pulleys, they move and lift huge masses. The Mappila khalasis were traditionally employed in launching the 400 tonne Arab dhows built at the Beypore docks but now are masters in hauling heavy wrecks.

           An exciting fact about the shipbuilding industry in Beypore is the way in which the craft are built and the variety which can be found. The flat bottomed zambuk (Sambuk), the majestic breek (both Indian and Arabian designs), the boom which boasts of an enormous cargo carrying capacity, and the bahala with its beautiful and intricate carvings and arches, are all made using traditional tools and techniques. Even more incredible is the number of people dependent on this industry. More than 500 families are directly and indirectly dependent on the shipbuilding industry. Special methods used from historic times were the use of wooden dowels instead of nails, use of coir rope and tar to seal joints etc.…Duarte Barbosa first recorded (around 1500 AD) manufacture of keeled ships boats carrying 1200 bahares burden (some 400 tonnes) in Beypore. He also noted that they had no decks. They were classic sewn boats of teak wood (both of which were at that time only available in Malabar – in this context). The caulking was done with shavings off the palm trees and the ships were coated with shark oil or castor oil for waterproofing.

           It was the previously described people from Oman, Hadhramaut, Yemen & Gulf – Iran who settled in Malabar to build these first Sanbuqs. The Hadhrami Sayyids, built the first ships in the 18th century with the Hadhramaut techniques. Trade shifted from Basrah in 1773 to Kuwait and Qatar. Later Muscat & Jeddah took over; even the aristocratic Baghlah was built in Malabar in the 19th century. The Kuwaiti & Omani Boum like the ‘the light of the earth and sea’ (the named ship was built in Beypore with Kuwaiti architects & Indian carpenters but did not become a popular ship though). Kambari’s were built using mango wood. Badan's had the stitched patterns and so on. Once the Arab traders discovered wealthy Kerala, her willing craftsmen and her native teak plantation centuries ago, they shifted their dhow construction to Beypore. This industry thrived till Iron & Steel took over the ships medium of construction.

          A remarkable feature of the technology of Uru making is that, there are no documents, work plans, technical data sheets or drawings right from the concept stage to completion. The construction details are assigned on a day to day basis to the assistants and carpenters by the master carpenter or Maistry. No electrical tools or heavy machines are used. The basic tools are the indigenous carpentry tools. All heavy lifting is done using elaborate pulley systems. Another amazing feature is the pre calculated water line marked around the hull, will be precisely on the water-level while the boat is launched. The master craftsmen of khalasis apparently use certain Shlokas (or are they Arabic verses?) as their guide to ship building. Even today, the formula of dhow making remains a closely guarded secret that is handed over from generations to generation. Today, only as few as four master craftsmen are left behind.

        Today Beypore dhows used for tourism purposes Dubai, though not usually around the coasts of Malabar. Beypore town today is dotted with dozens of shops that sell model ships and one can notice iron anchors lying on either side of the road, which are tell tale signs of this flourishing industry.

         Various types of ships were built in Beypore. Some of them were: Boumb , Padavu , Bireek , Kottiya , Sambook , Bahla & Pathemar . The Beypore ships were usually around 300 tonnes and sometimes 600 tones. Today’s manufacturing methods are slightly different – Nails are used. The ‘Keel’ is the first part of a dhow to be made. The second phase of work is concentrated on the second layer of the dhow from the bottom called ‘ganel’. Iron and copper nails are used to hold the wood together. Filling the gaps using quality cotton is the next tiring phase of work. It is a very time consuming process that has to be done with absolute care. Making of ‘chukkan’ is the third part of the construction. The ‘Chukkan’ begins from the keel itself and its height would be the actual height of the dhow. ‘Chukkan’ provides the total control of the vessel. Then the inside part of the dhow ‘deck’ and, finally ‘aruthi’ is made. The manufacturing process is completed with the tying up of the sail ‘mat’ (paya) to the mast (chamaram).

         The launching of a ship is a festive ceremony, attended by a large number of people. First, a prayer is said by the Qazi. When a Dhow was ready for launch wooden planks were kept up to appropriate height. The logs of the Puvathi tree serve as rollers are put on either side. Over these roller beams (Balus) strong enough to support the ship are kept. The gap between the beams and ship are filled tight with ropes. Then the ship is allowed to slowly move over the rollers with the help of rope and pulleys. In water they dip exactly up to the water mark earlier drawn by the Baramy. After the successful launch, a feast is laid out for all who have contributed to the ship building effort.
There is a light house too, at Chaliyar, just near Beypore.

Uru(Dhow)-Sambuk (Wooden Ship) Building yard at Beypore in Calicut

Uru (Dhow)-Sambuk (Wooden Ship) Building yard at Beypore in Calicut under Center For Heritage Studies (CHS), Government of Kerala:

Asia's first batch in Heritage Ship Technology
IHST